Adding a Passive Mode to an Active PJ Bass

Posted 2026/04/08. Last updated 2026/04/08.

Introduction

I recently had to replace the 9V battery powering my Donner DPJ-100 active bass during a lesson, and realized it would be a good idea to add a switch so that I can bypass the pre-amp entirely and have the bass work in passive mode. (Side-note: for £120 this has been a great and versatile starter bass. It fits quite nicely in my hands, and it also provided a good opportunity to learn how to set up an instrument. In fact, I find myself reaching for it more than my Ibanez SR300E!). Although there are some resources describing the high-level wiring, potential internal pre-amp schematic, as well as a general video tutorial for adding a bypass, I wanted to collate all the relevant information in one place.

Understanding the Existing Layout

The first step was to understand the bass wiring, which uses a "Mings #9010 2Band EQ(T.B)" pre-amp. I am summarizing these details in the following table (including wire colors), with left/middle/right representing the view of the potentiometer from the top of the shaft (also see the image in the next section).

The Pre-amp Integrated Circuit (IC)

Pin Color Connection
1 Black Signal -
2 White Signal +
3 White Bass Pot Right
4 Yellow Bass Pot Mid
5 Red Bass Pot Left
6 Black Bass Pot Ground
7 White Treble Pot Right
8 Yellow Treble Pot Mid
9 Red Treble Pot Left
10 Black Treble Pot Ground
11 White Volume Pot Right
12 Yellow Volume Pot Left
13 Red 9V Battery +

The order of the bass and treble pots is different compared to one post I had found, but it looks consistent with the picture of the actual device in another, so it is worth double-checking how the tone controls in your own instrument behave before following this guide blindly.

Grounding

There are lots of ground points in the various pots:

Component Color Ground
Blend Pot (MN250K) Black IC1
Bass Pot (B50K) Black IC6
Treble Pot (B50K) Black IC10
Volume Pot (B50K) Yellow IC12
Jack (via Output Cable Braid) - Volume Pot
Neck Pickup Yellow Volume Pot
Bridge Pickup Yellow Volume Pot
Bridge Black Volume Pot

Other Connections

To complete the circuit, the jack sleeve is connected to the negative terminal of the 9V battery, while the tip is connected to the volume pot middle pin (wiper). Finally, there is a blend potentiometer:

Pin Component
Top Left Signal - (Neck Pickup Black)
Top Middle Neck Pickup (White)
Top Right Signal +
Bottom Left Signal +
Bottom Middle Bridge Pickup (Red)
Bottom Right Signal - (Bridge Pickup Black)

Summary

The electronic schematic for the existing layout as well as a more visual diagram are therefore as follows:

Existing SchematicExisting Diagram

Adding the Bypass

The key component for the bypass is a "push-pull potentiometer" which effectively combines a regular potentiometer with a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch:

Labelled pins of push-pull potentiometer

When the switch is pushed in, it connects pin 2 with pin 3 and pin 5 with pin 4. When it is pulled out, it connects pin 2 with pin 1 and pin 5 with pin 6 instead. Although the original volume pot was a B50k one, I could only find a B250k push-pull pot to replace it with, which, due to its position in the circuit, does not affect the tone, just how quickly the volume fades when using the pot.

The table below shows the updated connections for the push-pull pot in passive-by-default mode (i.e., the switch needs to be pulled to make use of the preamp). To make the bass active by default when the switch is pushed, swap pin 1 with pin 3 and pin 4 with pin 6.

Pin Component
Left Volume Ground
Middle Jack Tip
Right Pin 5
Pin 1 IC2
Pin 2 Signal +
Pin 3 Pin 4
Pin 4 Pin 3
Pin 5 Volume Right
Pin 6 IC11
Ground Volume Left, Jack Ground, Pickup Grounds, Bridge Ground

The updated schematic and diagram are as follows:

Updated SchematicUpdated Diagram

Next Steps

The setup works quite well, but the bass and treble pots are unfortunately entirely unused in passive mode. My next modification will therefore be to add some tone control even when bypassing the pre-amp. I am currently waiting on the parts that will allow me to accomplish this without affecting the active-mode circuit, and may potentially need to try a few options to ensure that I am happy with the end-result.